In this age of rapid development, when people pay more attention to themselves by living a dynamic life, less time can be spent on pets. Instead of choosing classic pets that are time and financial consuming, modern people tends to choose exotic animals with less maintenance requirements.

Modern pets are bird spiders. Some exotic pets have proven disastrous for their owners, but tarantulas are beneficial to both humans and the tarantulas themselves. Several books have been published about bird spiders and documentaries have been made showing them in the natural environment. Publications of this kind have educated and attracted people's attention, which has aroused enough interest to want to buy these amazing creatures.

Tarantulas have low maintenance requirements. Most of them are durable because they grow in nature in harsh environments, there is no need to visit a veterinarian regularly, no need to take a walk, no haircuts, they need little space, they do not stink, do not make sounds, do not transmit diseases harmful to humans. If the tarantula is properly cared for, it will bring joy and excitement for many years.


When buying your first tarantula you must first think about what type of tarantula you want to buy. There are three types of tarantulas: arboreal (living in trees), terrestrial and burrower. I recommend buying the first tarantula as terrestrial.

Terrestrial tarantula spiderlings tend to dig into the ground, but when they reach the size of a juvenile / adolescent they become safer and more visible outside their hiding place.

Arboreal tarantulas are very cunning, able to jump, endowed with fantastic speed, they are seen to teleport because they move beyond the limits of human reaction.

If you do not want a pet instead of a hole in the ground, then as a first tarantula I do not recommend burrower, because they may not come out of their hide for a very long time. When buying your first tarantula, it's age (size) is very important, keep in mind that the older the tarantula, the more expensive it is.

They are mostly divided into four sizes: EWL (eggs with legs), spiderling, juvenile (half grown) and adult (fully grown/matured). As a first tarantula, I recommend buying a juvenile / almost adult, because - they are more durable, easier to determine the gender, their food is easier to access and their color, hair, behavior are more like an adult spider of the species.

Spiderling tarantulas look fantastic small, ant-sized, without the characteristic colors of the species, bold - without hair, sometimes I can't believe how a spider can grow out of an ant that is bigger than a large palm of a human, some species reach even a dinner plate size, but in general most spiders are relatively easy to care for.


Most tarantula feeders are live insects, but there are specimens that grow large enough to feast on small reptiles or even small mammals like mice. Some tarantulas wait for their prey right next to the hideout to capture them and drag them into their cave, others watch their prey, slowly snuggle up to it and attack unexpectedly at lightning speed.

Tarantulas do not eat their food, they rather absorb it. From the beginning, they must prepare food for intake by injecting poison (digestive toxin) from their fangs into their prey. After the poison has liquefied the victim, only then will the tarantula begin to slowly absorb the food. The belly system of Tarantula is like a long tube that runs through the whole body. When food is ingested by the tarantula the food system breaks it down and then it is ingested by the tarantula in the body.

Tarantulas, like humans, are good to be fed by a variety of food: insects, cockroaches, worms, lizards and even mice for larger tarantulas. A hungry tarantula will be ready to attack a pray of it's size, just remember that you should not be given more food than the body of the tarantula (excluding the legs). Food that is not eaten within 24 hours must be taken out, as sometimes the hunter himself can become prey, but food leftovers can start to rot. I usually feed my spiders once a week, I give up to three cockroaches a meal to juveniles and adults, I usually feed spiderlings only one or two newborn cockroaches once a week.

There is nothing to worry about if the tarantula refuses to eat, it may not eat for month's, even years without any problems or is preparing for exoskeleton change.

Tarantula tweezer feeding

Tarantula tweezer feeding


I feed my tarantulas with cockroaches. Cockroaches are a richer source of nutrients than other insects, they can be grown on their own, thus controlling their diet, thus avoiding parasites and infections that can enter the tarantula body and, of course, provide the necessary nutrients for tarantula with the help of cockroach feeds and vitamins. .

The most common cockroach species for feeding:

1. Hissers of Madagascar

2. Dubias (Blaptica dubia)

3. Marble cockroaches (Nauphoeta cinerea)

4. Turkmenistan Red Runners (Blatta lateralis)

Cockroaches for food



Like other pets, tarantulas require an always-available dish with clean water. Drinking water from a dish can be seen rarely, but that doesn't mean they don't use it. Any flat dish can be used for adult spiders, and a plastic bottle cap can be used for juveniles and spiderlings. A water bowl in the terrarium also helps maintain moisture levels, which is also important. For the tarantula to drink, the container must be wide enough to immerse the carapace (see anatomy). A stone can be placed in the water container to prevent the food insects from drowning in it, the stone will serve as a bridge to get out of the container. All tarantulas can also absorb water from the substrate, especially for spiderlings that do not need a dish. For arboreal tarantulas and spiderlings, usually, You can spray terrarium walls and plastic plants with a sprayer.

Plastic water cap

Tarantula Plastic water cap


Tarantulas do not need special lighting, it can be harmful, because tarantulas are nocturnal animals, sunlight is enough, but not direct sunlight, which can promote embroidery. The room light will not disturb them, I use a flashlight for a closer look. To avoid excessive stress on the tarantula, always remember to put the hide in the terrarium.


A very important aspect is proper ventilation, if it will be too little moisture in the terrarium will be very high can begin to form mold and condensation on the walls of the terrarium. If ventilation will be too high, the humidity level in the terrarium may be insufficient. In order to maintain optimal ventilation in the terrarium, it must be formed crosswise, or there must be holes in the top of the terrarium and in one of the walls, thus ensuring air circulation.


I use a coconut fiber substrate for all terrariums, half of the hardness can be mixed with houseplant bedding. Before adding houseplant soil, make sure it is free of chemicals designed to kill parasites. (Coconut substrate cubes must be mixed with 3 l of water before use and 9 l of cocofiger litter will be formed) Arboreal tarantulas need relatively little substrate around 4 cm. Terrestrial tarantulas, depending on their size, have so much substrate that they can dig under their hiding place. Burrowers need enough substrate to fully burrow under the ground, usually using twice as much substrate as their body length.


Tarantula substrate


The terrestrial tarantula fits a flowerpot, bark, tube or other object under which it can hide when it gets insecured.

Arboreal species in the terrarium need to place a vertical bark of a tree, branches, cork tree and on/under it tarantula will web his own hide.

Burrowers need enough substrate to bury. When setting up the terrarium, you must create a starting hole (cave) by hand. In order to get a better view of the cave, it is recommended to create a starting hole for the cave at the terrarium wall.

Corcbark hide

Tarantula Corcbark hide


Tarantulas can live at room temperature, it is not recommended to put heated mats for them, because with them the spider can burn the body and die. Humidity can be maintained by constantly watering the terrarium. The required humidity levels vary from species to species, as they live in different climates, but the preferred minimum would be 50% till between 70%. I usually check the moisture level when I give them food, check to see if the substrate is still wet and if no condensation has formed on the walls of the terrarium. If all of the substrate is dry, water half of it, leaving the other half dry.

A water container with clean water must always be available. Allow the substrate to fully dry is only recommended, as it can also avoid unwanted parasites. The moisture of the arboreal spider terrarium can be maintained by spraying walls of it.


Tarantulas are very clean pets. They very often take care of themselves (grooms), especially after meals, when you can see how they clean their fangs and mouth. They usually choose a specific area in the terrarium for their toilet needs and food waste disposal, if this area is not cleaned in time, then the tarantula will automatically choose another area.

Arboreal spiders will not turn their nest into a toilet, but terrarium glass and ground. It is very different with arboreals, if the terrarium is large enough for the tarantula then unnecessary cleaning work related to the destruction of it's lair should be avoided, as there is a possibility that he will not rebuild it - the easiest way is to clean only the surface of the substrate. For burrowers, the substrate may not change for several years.

Remember - plexiglass or plastic glass (organic glass) terrariums are easily scratched and must be cleaned very gently. It can be scratched even with a dry cloth. Therefore, glass terrariums are recommended, but their price is much higher as well the weight.


Various types of insects, such as grasshoppers, are the largest vectors of parasites and can infect tarantulas with parasites when feeding them. This is one of the reasons to grow tarantula feeders yourself or to buy them from well known shops or reliable growers.

If a parasitic epidemic has begun, tarantula should be removed. Clean terrariums, substrates and other terrarium items with boiling water. The best way to fight parasites is to allow the terrarium to dry out because they need moisture.

One way to destroy a large number of unwanted parasites is to drill a few small, small holes in a small plastic container with a lid and place a dead insect in it. Place this dish with the insect in the terrarium and after a few days the dish will be covered with parasites, they are attracted by dead insects. It works the same with water, moisture also attracts them.

There are also natural parasites and bacteria, such as Armadillidium vulgare.


I mostly use:

25cm tweezers - For feeding tarantulas that are larger than spiderlings,

13cm tweezers with a sharp tip - for feeding spiderlings,

Plastic glass - to catch if someone decides to run away,

Flashlight or bright lamp,

Soft brush / plastic straw

To move or catch a tarantula, it is advisable to use a plastic glass, in which the tarantula can be deceived by touching the rear legs with a brush, place a piece of cardboard on top of the glass. It is easier to trick the tarantula out of the glass if the glass has pre-drilled holes put in the brush and by touching the tarantula feet with the brush through the holes again, it will go in the intended direction.

Feeding tweezers

Tarantula Feeding tweezers


As the collection of tarantulas grows, it remains difficult to keep track of their development, feeding times and other activities. Therefore, I recommend marking the terrariums by assigning an individual number to each one, writing down the number and marking what is below which number and what when is done. This is the easiest way to keep track of feedings, before and after skin change cycles and everything else related to tarantula development.


Most of the tarantulas of the new pasalas have fine, itchy hairs on the bottom / abdomen, which they throw in defense when disturbed. These hairs are so fine that they can't really be seen in the air, much like glass wool dust. These hairs can cause itching, injuries penetrating the eyes and nose. The intensity and duration of the itching varies from species to species, this is one of the reasons why I do not take them by hand, as well as not to damage the eyes and see the tarantula up close, it is better to do it through the terrarium or at least safety glasess.


Urticating hairs

Tarantula Urticating hairs


I do not recommend taking Tarantula on your hands. Having tarantula in your hands puts you at risk for it's health, it can fall off and die. Tarantulas are exposition pets similar to aquarium fish. Man's curious nature and desire to touch this feathered miracle, the best way to do it would be to choose the calmest possible species and not take it in your hands, but let it crawl on your hand by gently touching its rear legs or abdomen with a brush, thus hastening in the specified direction. It is desirable to do this on the ground so that nothing happens to the tarantula as a result of the fall. The belly of the tarantula is very fragile, if it is damaged, such as by a fall, it will bleed out and die in a short time.

You will not always be able to pick up the tarantula. They have character. If the tarantula shows any kind of aggression, such as getting up their front legs and showing you fangs, it is better to put it to rest and try another time.



Looking at the available information about the fatal consequences of a tarantula bite for humans, I have not found anything so far. Tarantulas are not bloodthirsty creatures that will try to eat or hurt you at all costs. They are individual individuals who live their territorial life and if a tarantula tries to attack you most likely you are in his territory rather than the other way.

Many will show aggression and avoid unwanted fighting, others will protect their territory. Tarantula does not have endless venom, it's not wise to use it for pray that it cannot kill, so often they just do dry bites and leaves only two dots in skin - without injecting the venom (commonly called "venom" is digestive toxin).


The most popular way to measure tarantulas is from the first leg to the fourth diagonally (LS or Leg Span - size with legs) and body size (BS or Body Size - size without legs).